Have anyone ever?
Question:
Have anyone ever applied for the Capital One Auto Loan (Blank checks)? If you're currently using the Capital One Auto Loan, Blank check - How does it work? Does it worth it?
Answer:
For Auto Loans they are a pretty good contract if you have average to unpromising credit. If you have Great Credit you can usually do better through other bank. The Blank Check is exactly as it sounds. You apply for the loan and instead of filling out a bunch of credit apps at the dealership you have them the check with the amount complete in.
There be still some other paperwork the dealer did but it be minimal, I beleive it had to do beside the actual title to the car and not a loan but I don't exactly remember.. The solely thing is they hold specific restrictions on the car you can attain, so just read that since you head to the peddler.
Now the dealer will try and draw from you to fill out credit apps anyways saw they can get you a better settlement, if you want them to try go ahead but you don't requirement to.
Yes, I applied for a loan with their company. I be treated fairly, as the testimonial were more accommodating than some of the other companies I had considered.
I get my latest sports car that way. After they approved me (took a couple days) they overnighted me the blank check and told me the amount it would be fitting up to.
Then I signed up for autopayments to be taken from my checking (they gave me a 1/2% money off in my interest rate) and for over 2 years no problems.
I would do it again.
I am getting mixxed opinion on something.. does closing out a credit card commentary really hurt your credit?
Question:
My whole vivacity I have be told its not good to own too many undo credit cards that you dont use.. but on here it appears that people are dictum it is hurtful to your credit score to close out credit cards.
Thinking in the region of is rationally I would guess that closing accounts you dont use would help your win since you are lowering your potential future debt which would make available you less randomness of getting in trouble finacially...
Answer:
Probably because folks on here work for Visa and Amex
Having too many unscrew accounts IS bad for your credit, and any honest lender would put in the picture you the same point. What people are clich¨¦ is that closing out 1 or 2 two accounts that you have have good long standing relationships beside can be bad because it lowers your credit history-- and that happen to be true.
But if you have similar to 6 or 7 open cards that you don't use, you should revoke a couple ( start with the most recent) because it will show lenders that you hold less indiscriminate of getting into serious debt trouble down the road.
Always remember that not everyone on here is looking out for YOUR best interest...
This actually have a variety of answers due to fluction within people...do u hold numerious credit accounts already open...if so...closing one or two is not going to hurt and will truly help.
However, if you singular have a few credit accounts contained by your history record consequently perhaps you may need to leave this one moving.
Hope this helped.
Having smaller amount cards is a good entry. You should have 1 or 2 cards but no more. Your embark on cards should never be more at more than 50% of your limit. If you hold gotten your credit rating, you will see that points are deducted for have numerous cards. Good luck; credit is a hard point to rebuild once you screw it up.
Part of your credit win is based on the total balance you have on adjectives your cards verses the total amount of credit available.
So yes, closing out a credit card depiction with a dignified limit will hurt your ranking because you have reduced the amount of available credit minus reducing the outstanding balances.
closing the cards dings your credit. cut them and dont use them crazy but true.
If you own too many cards, you could label it so your access to debt is too high. However, if you close out elder cards that you no longer use and only hold newer ones, you could create the image that your credit history is smaller amount than what it really is...it's kind of a double edge sword.
I would suggest closing out cards you don't use providing they are newer cards and keep the elder ones. If the new ones are much better cards...close the elder ones, take the hit and surrounded by a few months you should be back up to where on earth you are now except higher...
"Your potential adjectives debt" has no attitude on a credit score. Credit score are about HISTORY, not FUTURE.
There are several reason that closing a credit card can hurt your score:
1) It be an older card, and closing it effectively shortened the average report length for other cards. (History is a big chunk of your score.)
2) You have a lot of available credit on that card but not on otherse, so closing it effectively highered your overall utilization (balance vs. limit) ratio. (Utilization ratio make up to 35% of your score.)
3) You dont enjoy that many accounts so closing it made your overall "portfolio" of accounts smaller.
Closing an narrative CAN help if it is a more recent card and your other cards are elder.
There's a great deal of variance, because different lenders will look at friendly or closed credit card accounts differently, and the majority of that thinking will have to do near the balances you hold on those cards.
I work within a credit union and I asked some loan processors here final year about the two credit cards I own; one has a $6000 keep a tight rein on, the other a $500 limit. I asked that, when I money them off, should I hold them open or closed? What will look more favorable to a lender who is considering lend me money? Both said they would keep them instigate. The reason why is because if you retribution them off and don't use them, it shows responsibility. You own "free" money in your hand, but are not using it. And the longer you go lacking using them, the better it looks. These were criteria they used when looking at potential debtors' credit reports.
But also, one of the things they consider, is, "Well he have this credit card he's not using, but what happens if he loses his duty and needs to use it?" So really, it can look both flawless and bad--which way it looks is mostly base on how the rest of your credit looks.
If necessary and you enjoy credit cards open beside large borders, you can always hail as the card company and ask them to reduce your target if you think a substantially sizeable limit might formulate you look unfavorable. Just make sure you can lower it to the amount you want, and it's rewarded off that far!
In my inference and all the warning I've heard roughly it, I would keep them unfold. I also once thought that closing a credit card once you paid it rotten made you look more responsible but think of it this road: you're considered "debt free" on that account since you owe zilch to it, yet it still qualify as credit you can use. But having an actual closed credit card justification (closed by you) doesn't "hurt" your credit at all; your actual credit win won't change for respectively account you close.
Can a collection agency put something on my credit if they dont own my social collateral number?
Question:
I a problem with a collection agency and I discern like i should be at hand. I never gave them my social protection number and i was wondering if they can report this to the credit agencies.
Answer:
If they dont enjoy your ss number they have no agency to prove that the debt is yours. It could have be anyone with duplicate name. does that clear sense? If they were to put it on your credit you could apeal it thru the 3 trunk credit bearu's Transunion, Experion, Equifax- good luck
They can do anything they want freshly about to cause your life miserable. They will find a process to get it if they have need of it. Probably from the original creditor you owe the bill too. They report adjectives the time, but when you actually income it off and they are supposed to remove it, they don't. You can conflict that but it takes forever to win done. Like years. I still have stuff that I file on bankruptcy support in 1999, they won't remove. So immediately I have to hire this company for around 300 dollars to do it for me. But they guarentee to get it done.
When is inheritance considered income?
Question:
Answer:
In the U.S., money which would have be considered income by the person who died, if he have received it during his lifetime, is also considered to be income by the person who adjectives it. Examples include money withdrawn from an Individual Retirement Account, or 401K plan, and wages that were owed to the lifeless but unpaid at death.
However, property i.e. not in a retirement plan. (Such as a regular stock brokerage side or real estate), get a new import tax basis at the date of the lifeless death, equal to its effectiveness on that date. - So if the property is then sold, here will only be a possessions gains toll if the property goes up surrounded by value after the date of extermination. (In some cases - generally involving considerable estates, it is possible to value the property at its significance 6 months after the date of death a bit than at the date of death contained by determining the new duty basis.)
Interest and dividends on adjectives property are taxable just similar to any other interest and dividends.
Generally, it's not ever considered income to the receiver. But if the inheritance is property, and the beneficiary sells it, specifically a different story.
how do you achieve your credit & checking #'s past its sell-by date of laptop? plz support thanx mentally anguished over this prob?
Question:
Answer:
Clear history, cache *and* cookies of your browser (when I said clear cache, I also meant cookies - I do both at like peas in a pod time so I generally don't differentiate them).
That female is wrong son. You gotta clear off your cookies. Don't listen to that female below me.
to resolve this problem once & for all--go to the bank, revision your checking account#--cut up your credit/debit cards ,cancell everything & start--over that's what i had to do--and don't ever make a contribution your personal accounts out again
Credit card numbers?
Question:
Someone I know needs petrol money (This human being is very trustworthy) Unfortunately on their travels they have to spend money on repairs to their car so hold run out of money I would like to reimburse for their petrol (by the way this personage is many miles from where on earth I live at the moment) but is it safe to endow with my credit card number over the phone to the gas station owner to pay for this person`s petrol
Answer:
your c.c.#s are untouchable! youll run the risk of having a fraud against you--not worth it
NO
Not at adjectives. Go to a Western union and convey them the money direct. Make sure they need no ID to pick it up. Ask the Western Union rep for assistance. Please do not give your CC # over the phone.
Have you get any proof that this gas station person is who he say.
I agree get your friends description details and wire him/her the money.
failing that "i'm really sorry i enjoy no money i can't help you"!
Not no, but HELL NO!
Does loan rejection lower your credit chalk up?
Question:
or does only loan inquiries lower the evaluation, with taking up or rejection irrelevant?
Answer:
inquires will lower your score...a loan rejection doesn't... :)
Yes.
both can lower your ranking.
Inquiries lower your score. Rejections are not record in your database.
When you pay packet an over-due/write-off item, how long does that (lack of a better term) "impossible credit" stay on record?
Question:
When I was 18 I started getting credit cards and loans, and due to youth, ignorance and inexperience I missed several payments and I believe I even hace a correct card "written-off" for the amount of $3. Now that I make well-mannered money, I've accessed my credit report to settle up off adjectives fees and late items. How long will those refusal marks stay on my report? I've heard "7 years," I've hear "a few months to one year." Obviously I am now elder and wiser and wish to have- and maintain- flawless credit. If bad grades are on my credit report for several years, is there any agency to expidite the process of having them for always removed? Thanks!
Answer:
This is a very suitable example of why you can't really believe the advice on RunEye.com. It's impressively depressing to see so many general public giving out wrong information, especially when I've posted this very same answer dozens of times. These responders simply will not lug two minutes to research their answers.
Lesson to everyone, if they won't give you a source of information don't believe it.
No, it is not a "myth" that refusal information comes off your credit report contained by 7 years. It's THE LAW! The Fair Credit Reporting Act demands that all cynical items must be removed after 7 years, starting from the date of the delinquency. It can NOT be restarted if its sold to another collection agency. Paying it off does NOT restart that clock.
Here is what you requirement to know.
There are only two ways a unenthusiastic item can be removed from your credit report prior to the 7-year automatic deletion:
1) The creditor must remove it.
2) The creditor fails to respond to a dispute investigation.
Also write down that paying off a bill does NOT win it removed from your credit report. All they are required to do is change the status to "paid" but it will still show collections or charge off's. It's still a fruitless report.
So what do you do?
Start by getting your credit report and examine it carefully. Look for any errors. You are trying to find a aim to dispute the entry. Then send out dispute parcels.
Next, you can consider paying off the debt. Note that as debts find older they do not enjoy as great an effect on your report. Therefore, if you make a payoff on an old debt, it turns it into a "recent activities" debt and it will in actuality hurt your score.
So you entail to make a plan. Contact respectively of your creditors and negotiate a payment plan. Tell them that contained by exchange for paying the bill, they must agree IN WRITING to delete the entry from your credit history. Remember the purpose of this exercise is to fix your credit history. It makes unquestionably no sense to pay sour a debt and still have a unpromising history! If they will not agree to do it, don't pay them!
Pay stale recent bills first, then work on the elder ones. If the bill is over 5 years old consider departure it alone, and let it drop past its sell-by date your report automatically after 7 years.
Meanwhile, while you are doing all of this, start re-establishing your credit. Get a couple of credit cards and use them favourably. Pay your bills! Your credit report reflects how you use credit, and if you quit using it altogether you will never restore your credit ranking.
Hope this helps you out.
Generally, 7 years. If you take-home pay on an item, it (according to what I've been told) "restarts the clock". If you can recompense something off surrounded by one lump sum, that's best- if it's going to be on the credit anyway, it's better to have it rewarded, albeit late, than not rewarded at all.
I'm within the process of repairing my credit- I've had some charge off's as well- those close to human being removed (I believe it's experian that will show when the item will disappear) I don't worry beside. However, if something has a ways to go- I'll reward off one at a time until they are adjectives paid. If zilch else, it shows some effort to repair and while some creditors don't even thinking about that- others will.
Good luck.
You hold to write Experion, Trans Union, and the other one(?) I forgot the name! It is a myth that doomed to failure credit magically disappears after 7 years. You can write a letter concerning the bad items. One missive per item and dispute that the item belongs to you. Scandalous, I know, But it worked for me. I got the proposal from a mortgage broker that did that all the time for his clients. The company have 30 days to dispute the claim. If they do not respond then the item drops from your story. After so many years own passed and it is such a small amount more than likely it will drop sour. It worked for me!
There is no specific time period, regardless of what we've hear about seven years, ten years, etc. When the creditor stops reporting it, it will dribble off, depending on the repository's specific guidelines (Experian, Equifax, TransUnion). If you don't wages it off, it could be here forever--because it will get sold to a collection agency who will verbs to report the debt as "current". You best bet is to contact whoever is reporting the debt (original creditor or collection agency) and negotiate to pay it past its sell-by date if they remove the item from your credit report. Often they will agree to do this. Good luck.
I just did that next to an acct. and I was postponed a few times and they reported it to bureau After I paid past its sell-by date bill I asked if they would please call and find that mark bad of my report. She said she couldn't because it is apart of my" paying of my bills" history. Bummer huh? Sorry to give you the unpromising news but your return histories with creditors is close to you finger print it's yours to keep. I'm working near "Credit Attorneys" lawyers that that's adjectives they do is go surrounded by and attack charges that you dispute (even from 15 years ago) and ask your creditors for documentation to prove the charges are correct. If they don't have documentation the charges are erased from your reports. Cool huh? Good luck, if you want to know more something like these lawyers at this Law firm ask me a give somebody the third degree to that affect I'll keep checking answers
If you own actually compensated the items off you credit report should show Settled surrounded by Full "SIF" or Paid in Full "PIF". All credit on your credit report have ratings R1-R9 for revolving credit such as credit cards and I1-I9 for installment loans such as car transcription. No matter how you reward settlement or full payment yourR or I status will no longer transmute. Where paying helps you is it lowers your Debt-Income-Ratio. As far as when it will come past its sell-by date is up to the credit holder. In seven years you can request it be removed whether you have compensated it or not. The seven years extends from the time of last payoff. So if you defaulted on it 5 years ago and be harassed by a collector to settle somethin 3 years ago your seven starts at that three year mark. The other benefit you have if you settle the commentary is that if you dispute the item after most companies will not respond because they have what they considered necessary all along, transmittal.
FYI: The older the information is on your credit report; "good" or "bad' the lower the impact it have on your credit score.
Congratulations on your conclusion to value your credit. It is a awfully mature entry to do.
There are lots of misconceptions about credit, and some of the answers you received to your give somebody the third degree are proof of that.
Anything adverse remains on a credit report for 7 years from the date of last hum. In the case of a desperate debt or charge off, that date is frozen at the time the debt become more than 120 days late - the date doesn't revision if you pay it past its sell-by date. So if you had a credit card that be charged off 02/2000, regardless of whether you retribution it, it will automatically fall stale your credit file February 1st 2007.
The problem that can come about if you don't pay the debt is that the company can folder a judgment against you, and that can be reported for 7 years from the date it is file, so it's good that you rewarded those debtors. You can try requesting those companies put in a deletion of the adverse accounts; since you rewarded them, they might be willing to forgive you and give up reporting. They aren't obligated to remove them until the 7 years is up, but it doesn't hurt to try. When you contact the creditor, ask for a supervisor, then proprietor, and see if you can get your request escalated - you will enjoy more success if you are polite, but unremitting.
There are lots of companies and people who promise to fix your credit, or enjoy negative items removed. If the report is accurate, however, not a soul is going to have them removed. Credit repair companies charge thousands of dollars, and adjectives they do is write letters or name the reporting agencies and dispute that the accounts are inaccurate. You could do that yourself for free, and it would be preferable to letting some shady characters own your personal ID info, and having to earnings them for it. I've worked for a major credit reporting agency for over 12 years, and I've even hear of credit clinics using their clients' SSNs to commit fraud.
Good luck in your quest to advance your credit report - hope this info helps.
What happen if you try and accessible a catalouge side next to the wrong d.o.b and they find out??
Question:
Answer:
Its fraud. At best they would refuse the article. If they really wanted though they could prosecute. Which I doubt. But they could put a notice on her credit history for attempting fraud, a sort of marker which would alert other lenders, which would breed it difficult to get any other features of credit. Im not sure what they actually would do though.
You'll turn up a missing person and conclude up in a catologue landfill ... :-)
Off to Gitmo - I hope you resembling orange jumpsuits
They stop sending you birthday cards
It's fraud, plain and simple.
Is 17.71% credit available appropriate on credit report?
Question:
I checked my credit report, and on the page it said I have 17.71% credit available. Is that a upright thing?
Answer:
All that way is that out of your total available credit (credit limits on cards) that you are using 82.29% of that and hold 17.17% left that is to say available to charge. Generally lower revolving balances indicate that you are a moral credit risk. In other words it could be bad if you are using that much credit in need ever paying it off. But it won't hurt if you own say a card beside $1000 limit and charge it up every month next to food and gas then wage it off when the bill comes.
It system that you are using 82.29% of all the credit you enjoy available. That seems somewhat giant to me.
The key cross-examine: what is your FICO score?
Under around 80% available will hurt your ranking. 18% is NOT good.
What is the exact definition of "second activity" for your credit reports?
Question:
I know that an old tale will be deleted from your credit report 7 years from "second activity". But what is "last activity"? Last return? Last purchase on the credit card? Last contact with the company? Do the 3 credit bureaus hold different definitions? Or do companies and collections enjoy different definitions?
Answer:
The date of closing activity (DLA) on a credit card to be exact current is the date of last charge or final payment. On a credit card or mound loan, mortgage, student loan or car loan to be precise considered to be a bad debt, it is frozen at the date when the portrayal became 120 days ancient due.
Collections will purge from the file 7 years from the date they become a collection (defined as 120 days past due).
Keep surrounded by mind that accounts that are paid in good time (as agreed) remain on the credit file for 10 years from the DLA, as these are positive credit factor. Negative accounts purge after 7 years from DLA.
The definitions are standard throughout the credit reporting industry.
final activity technique your latest purchased(Last purchased on the credit cards, closing usage).
the last time they audited your report and found acct that are not delinquent or within trouble. when they updated your info
Last activity is defined as the time when your justification went delinquent AND WAS NOT BROUGHT CURRENT. For example, making a recompense on a 1 year old debt does not correction the DOLA, since one payment does not adaptation the delinquent status. That's for accounts shown by the original creditor.
For charged-off accounts, the FCRA states accounts may one and only remain 7 years from the date of 1st delinquency, after the expiration of 180 days. For example, if you took out a loan 1/1/2000 and never made a payment, and the story was charged sour 6/1/2000, that date CANNOT change no business who is attempting to collect on the account. The narrative must be removed 6/1/2007, since that is 7 years from when the portrayal went delinquent.
My piousness! We certainly own the experts here today! Lots of informed answers here.all wrong.
Again, but another example of why not to believe responders here who do not bother to research their answers or give sources.
Hey guys! If your singular source is that you "have alot of framework on this subject" (Asecine)...or that you are a "Collection Specialist"...(RedSoxFan)...wh... do you do with I verbs your credibility by posting the correct answer (with sources)?
Lets start all over. First, the "date of ultimate activity" has zilch at all to do beside your credit reporting timeframe. I've posted this very same answer dozens of time!
The single timeframe that is defining regarding your credit history is the "delinquency date". For example, if you owed a bill on Jan 1, 1999, and didn't discharge it, THAT is the delinquency date. After 7 years, any negative report on your history must delete (Jan 1, 2007).
It is NOT the Charge Off Date
It is NOT the last transaction date.
It is NOT the CRA reporting date.
It does NOT restart if you trademark a payment.
It does NOT restart if it's sold to another agency.
I posted the actual LAW below. Please transcribe that as you read it, there is some confusion in the order of the "180 day" period. Let me explain what this is
Creditors may not BEGIN posting to your credit report for 180 days once you hold missed your bill. This allows you a 'grace period' before they can do that. It be built into the law.
In 2003, congress amended the Fair Credit Reporting achievement, and also passed the "Fair and Accurate Credit Reporting Act of 2003". These acts added some untried wording that conflicted a little beside the "180 day rule". The FTC Commissioners wrote a position tabloid to clarify this, stating that the intent of congress to establish the starting point for reporting period, and that it begin on the date of the delinquency. It reaffirmed that the "180 day rule" is intended as for reporting purposes merely.
As for the "last transaction" stuffthis relates to the officially recognized timeframe a creditor must file lawful action to collect on a debt, otherwise referred to as the "statute of limitations". In this luggage, the "last transaction" is defined as when you take home a purchase or payment on a revolving type of credit. The simple feat of contacting a creditor has nil to do with it.
I've posted some more info below. Good luck.
I recently get my credit score superior by restoring my credit report for free here:
http://www.creditreportzone.info...
Nowadays i never get decline for credit.
Are within charges for withdrawing a credit card overpayment?
Question:
Could they send "different" money & charge as lolly advance?
What is the best process to withdraw?
(capital 1 card)
Thanks.
Answer:
If you've overpaid the outstanding go together on your account, they'll reimbursement it to you upon request. Or you could just use the card and spend it bad that way.
If you simply remunerated more than you had intended to, that will basically reduce your total debt. It's not an overpayment and they will not typically return it to you. If you take bread out equal to the amount that you "overpaid" it will be processed as a cash credit with any fees and interest charges per your cardholder agreement.
i come up with so... since it's credit card, the moment you take money from it, it's considered a lolly advance.
my friendly local shopkeeper puts it through the till as a salei dont know how its done but it works! ps dont fruck next to c1 ...they WILL hassle you!
You should call them and they will verbs the money in to your report free, otherwise if you use the cash point you will be charged
yes here is
Where can i check my credit report for free?
Question:
Answer:
annualcreditreport.com
I have used http://www.freecreditreport.com/... to check my credit, and they give the impression of being to be pretty cool. For a fee, you can enjoy them e-mail you reports every so often on how your report is doing.
freecreditreport.com or ring one of them and get sent to u by post
Each year, you are entitiled to reguest your free credit report from each of the three credit union. However, this should not be confused with your FICO rack up which is a type of report card of your reports from these 3 unions. for this FICO chalk up I recommend myfico.com
Maybe you can try below website to get the information. It's just about free credit report articles for your second opinion
How long does it whip to incline your credit gain?
Question:
I was past its sell-by date of work for 8 months and couldn't pay anything. I hold been paying my bills for three months in a minute on time. I hold set up a schedule to put together sure everything is paid in good time from now on. Thank righteousness for a job! With my horrifyingly low credit ranking of 504 how long will it take until that time that starts to raise pay for up?
Answer:
Actually your score vary on a continual basis. So hang on to up the on-time payments for 3 months and you should start seeing some improvement. Here's the lowdown on how to keep hold of increasing your score:
Your credit mark is determined the following way:
35% - Bill-paying history
30% - Debt ratio
15% - Credit history
10% - Mix of credit
10% - Pursuit of current credit.
Obviously, to raise your mark, you have to:
1) Always settle your bills on time
2) Keep credit card usage beneath 50% (under 30% best)
3) Never close old accounts, which is resembling deleting credit history
4) Obtain different types of credit : consumer, auto, home
5) Do not aggressively apply for alien credit
A detailed overview of the credit scoring system is available at http://financialbasics.blogspot.com/2006...
Good luck
Your credit score will be recalculate once a year, that what my sandbank rep. told me so not 100% sure!
at least a year and every year that you rate everything with out person late it get better.
Maybe you can try below website to get the information. It's nearly credit score articles just about how you can improve it contained by 90 days
Wal-Mart Credit Card Question?
Question:
Can I use my Wal-Mart credit card at other stores Like Dick's sporting goods? or any other place?
Answer:
Is it a Wal-Mart Visa? Or Wal-Mart Mastercard? consequently sure!
If it is just for Wal-Mart.. uhm Dick's will smile and later hand you an application for THEIR card. lol (GodI love that store!!)
(But consequently you knew that already. You smart one you)
I enjoy a Target Visa. It might work the same track. The more I spend at any store by using the card, I get a percentage stale at the end of the month at Target. Love it!! :) Maybe this is what you enjoy at Wal-mart? *shrugs*
If it has the Visa or Master Card logo on it, you can use it anywhere those cards are agreed.